Passou uma semana do último Portugal Fashion e finalmente estou a conseguir partilhar aqui algo sobre o evento. Não assisti a todos os desfiles, mas esta edição foi recheada! E corrida! Muito corrida... Mas vamos ao que interessa, tenho imensos coordenados que quero mostrar-vos aqui, por isso, além deste post haverão mais. Stay tuned!
A week has passed since last Portugal Fashion and I'm finally able to share something here about the event. I didn't watch all the parades, but this edition was full of good proposals! And race! A lot... But let's go to what matters, I have a lot of coordinates that I want to show you here, so in addition to this post there will be more. Stay tuned!
Carlos Gil
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É inevitável não começar com Diogo Miranda. Desde há muitas edições que este está no meu top 3 de desfiles preferidos, e esta edição não foi diferente.
Desta vez a inspiração partiu do mundo da fotografia, mais propriamente do fotógrafo Irvin Penn, e de uma mulher feminina e dramática, bem ao estilo a que o criador já nos acostumou. Assim sendo não faltaram as rachas pronunciadas, cinturas marcadas, cortes assimétricos, tecidos estruturados e peças com volume. O típico look de cocktail arrojado mas sem ser vulgar. A-DO-RO!!!
It 's inevitable not to start with Diogo Miranda. Since many editions this is in my top 3 of favorite parades, and this edition was no different.
This time the inspiration came from the world of photography, more precisely from the photographer Irvin Penn, and from a feminine and dramatic woman, near to the style that the creator has already accustomed us to. Thus, pronounced slits, marked waists, asymmetrical cuts, structured fabrics and pieces with volume were not lacking. The typical dashing but not vulgar cocktail look. LOVE!!!
Nunca tinha assistido a um desfile desta dupla, estava empolgada mas ainda não foi desta... No entanto, depois de ver algumas das propostas apresentadas, tinha de os inserir nestes posts. As cinturas marcadas e os folhos, os prints nipónicos (que não evidenciei aqui) e as texturas conferem às silhuetas um ar feminino e arrojado. Predominaram aqui os pretos, azuis, brancos e vermelhos, que no conjunto reflectem uma nova geração e a sua visão da moda, de uma forma diferente e disruptiva.
I had never seen a parade of this pair, I was excited but it was not this year yet... However, after seeing some of the proposals presented, I had to insert them in these posts. The marked waistlines and frills, the Japanese prints (which I didn't show here) and the textures give the silhouettes a feminine and bold air. Black, blue, white and red predominated here, which together reflect a new generation and their vision of fashion in a different and disruptive way.
Que a inspiração pode vir de qualquer lugar já sabemos, é cliché, certo, e Buchinho é prova disso mesmo. Esta colecção tem inspiração nas gravuras Gyotaku, uma técnica tradicional japonesa que consiste na pintura e impressão dos peixes que os pescadores pescavam com tinta em folhas de arroz, de modo a apresenta-las como troféus. Foi daqui que surgiram as estampas vistas nesta colecção, e o efeito brilhante e metálico que faz lembrar escamas de peixes. O efeito foi conseguido recorrendo a tecidos que têm uma base recorrente, como o algodão, sedas e malhas enrugados, plissados ou no seu estado natural com impressões de foil e de películas.
That inspiration can come from anywhere we know, it's cliché, right, and Buchinho is proof of that. This collection is inspired by the Gyotaku engraving, a traditional Japanese technique consisting of the painting and printing of the fish that the fishermen fished with paint on rice leaves, in order to present them as trophies. From here came the prints seen in this collection, and the shiny metallic effect that reminds fish scales. The effect was achieved by using tissues that have a recurring base, such as cotton, silks and wrinkled, pleated or in their natural state with foil and film prints.
Carlos Gil
Sem que haja espaço para dúvidas, a inspiração para esta colecção foi mesmo a aguarela! As pinceladas transformadas em padrão e as cores não me deixam mentir. Esta que sempre foi uma paixão de Carlos Gil materializou-se em silhuetas ultra femininas, algo já característico do criador, com base em tecidos fluidos, leves e delicados como a seda, organza e crepe. Tudo isto com uma paleta de cores vibrantes, sem esquecer a sensualidade nos cortes, o tailoring, os casacos mais técnicos e uma grande tendência do momento, os calções de ciclista.
Without any space for doubt, the inspiration for this collection was the watercolor! The brushstrokes transformed into pattern and the colors don't let me lie. This one that was always a Carlo's passion materialized in ultra feminine silhouettes, something already characteristic of the creator, based on fluids, light and delicate fabrics like silk, organza and crepe. All this with a palette of vibrant colors, not forgetting the sensuality in the cuts, the tailoring, the more technical coats and a great trend of the moment, the cycling shorts.
photo credits Elle by Ugo Camera